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NEWSLETTERS | Classic Clippings
BUDBURST 1995
Contents :
1995 Gallery Series - Riesling
For the third year in a row the season has hit our riesling production, with production for this vintage down by about 20%. The bad news is that with a market clamouring for all it can get, a return to "average" production would have been gladly welcome, not only by ourselves, but by our agents, their outlets and customers in turn, all of whom seem to be grumbling about the short supply.
On the up side, these lean years can be relied upon to turn out the better wines. In that sense, there should be no complaints about this 1995 wine.
Our artist for this wine is Russell Pick from Clare. Russell has an oriental bent, which is quite obvious in the painting done for this riesling.
Over to Russell for his own words on the riesling label, and the matching work for the next cabernet release.
The origin of the motifs used in the two paintings come from ideas I have been working on over the last three years.
They mirror ideas being explored in a series of larger works inspired by Buddhist Mandala Painting and a desire to create symbols to represent states of natural order.
Although the works exhibit very identifiable Russell Pick symbols, I have included ideas derived, however obscure, from The Wilson Vineyard and the Polish Hill River region. The basic U shape symbol represents vine root stock, also an early Christian religious sign in keeping with the origins of Polish Hill River.
A fork shape figure at the base of each painting represents underground water. The birds and insects exist in the vineyard.
The colours used are derivative of the contents Red and White.
The White label contains a human element, intervention in harmony with the natural order or the lanky John Wilson himself
Russell Pick
We make more riesling than any other wine in the stable, and that situation is not likely to change, and quite deliberately so. Riesling is king in Clare, and as far as riesling is concerned, Polish Hill River is the jewel in the crown of Clare.
We made our first serious riesling in 1085. Since then, all of our rieslings have been 100% Polish Hill River origin, and all aspects of production up to the stage of bottling have been carried out by ourselves.
We recently conducted a vertical tasting of our rieslings, covering all vintages from 1985 to 1995.
Two important things about enjoying aged riesling. Not too cold - about 15 degrees is right. They seem to be better if allowed to breathe for an hour or two -just pulling the cork is not enough - pour off half a glass first.
1985 My favourite of the line up, but then I can gloat because I've still got a few cases. Lively and young and no sign of tiring. Honey and cedary flavours set this wine above the rest.
1986 Quite a wine in its day, but I think it has got where it is going. Still beautiful aged characters, but better to drink now rather than wait.
1987 Not quite an ugly duckling in its day, but something of the poor relation to the celebrated '86 at the time. It has now eclipsed the '86 and seems to be getting better with time. Reminiscent of the best aged German rieslings.
1988 Powerful lime aromas. Still plenty of youthful fruit. My number two in the line-up and a wine that has still got another ten years.
1989 No sign of tiring. Spicy, fruity and a dry finish. Classical aged riesling.
1990 A very dry wine that would be without peer with whiting or oyster. Should improve for another five years at least.
1991 Equal third place with the '87 in my line up. Potent lime and tropical fruit flavours. We shall have limited quantities of this wine available for sale in the new year. Still years of life in front of it.
1992, 1993, and 1994. We have consistently found that our rieslings go into a 'hole' at about 18 months of age, and metamorphose for a couple of years. My recommendation for anyone with these wines in the cellar is to leave them there. I am confident that they will blossom.
If you want to see a lively debate, get a group of winemakers together and throw in the subject of free wine tasting at cellar-door, It is an issue that seems to surface with regularity, and in recent months we have seen moves from within one of the other wine regions in South Australia for the custom to be abandoned in favour of a nominal fee.
Our position is quite clear, in that we oppose any introduction of fees for tasting, but we are concerned that the cost of providing this service in increasing, whilst at the same time we perceive a change in visitor attitude towards the service being a right rather than a privilege.
By far the greatest cost factor in providing tastings is that of our own time. Next is the cost of the wine which is a finite resource made at some cost, and one that could otherwise be sold wholesale. Finally, and I know that I have said it before, but people continue to be amazed that we have to pay 26% sales tax on our own wine that we give away.
We do not expect that everyone that calls will buy some wine, but conversely we wouldn't keep doing it if we never sold a bottle. What we do think is a reasonable expectation is that of those who do come and only taste, that we are entitled to be thanked for our effort.
Sadly that is not happening, and it is of concern to note that approximately one third of those who taste but do not buy, just slink out without a word of thanks.